While touring the cathedral in Cuzco, the tour guide pointed out a large painting over an apse. "This is a depiction ofthe afterlife in hell, which the spaniards used to frighten and convert the Incas." Upon no reflection at all, I realized that, if hell involves riding war elephants(and what did they do to deserve eternal damnation?), and fighting dragons for all eternity, they could sign me up.
No photo available, as God does not allow them in His house.
Matt
Sunday, July 13, 2008
Wednesday, July 9, 2008
Murder Mystery Night at La Casa de Aliaga
The second night in Lima we were treated to the rare opportunity to dine in the oldest house in Latin America. Situated next to the presidential palace in Lima's main square, we ambled down the street to the left of the palace, to a nondescript door with an elaborate "A" carved on its face. We arrived early, knocked, and I wondered if we had the secret password we needed to whisper to the mayordomo to get in. I think the secret word would have rhymed with Pisarro: "bizarro". And that described the scene on the other side.
The place belonged to Pisarro's best bud, a Count or some such by the name of Aliaga. The house has been in the same family (thanks Spanish feudalism!) for about 16 generations. They had managed to snag the title back from Spain in the 60's (that's 1960s) after the strength of the X chromosome for a few decades stripped them of the noble designation.
It was a dark, dark house, that even managed to make a the French rococo room seem sinister. We entered at night in the dark entry and were greeted by the house staff. Up the stairs from the main doors to an open courtyard, illuminated by one light, that confused the senses at night, as it seemed like the Lima cloudy night sky was the ceiling, as the sweep of the cold winter air swirled around you. They like to psyche you out in this palace.
Each room was old money decoration by the century. A disorienting mosaic of mishmashed styles spanning the continents and centuries. They like to keep you guessing. Dark Spanish1500s gothic decor one room, French rococo with original Louis XVI chairs we sat on, 2 original Versailles mirrors with Marie Antoinette's likeness above it, a paneled empire period waiting room, and family portraits dotting every available spot on the walls whose eyes seemed to follow you as you walk by. If the house were attached to a rotting pier and had a carousel it could have served as the backdrop for every Scooby Doo scene ever. I kept expecting to see human eyes behind the portraits quickly shutting as our eyes met The interlopers in a fish bowl, waiting for the murder mystery to begin.
We decided that our group of 10 would have two rules;
1: no one would go into the basement, and
2: we were only to travel the house in pairs.
Eventually, our tour of the house took us into an inner courtyard with a ficus tree so tall that extended a full story out of the house. Having only ever seen the sort of ficus that freaks out and drops all its leaves after someone moves it half a foot, seeing how substantial one can get when it's left stationary- planted in fact- was fairly eye opening.We waited on the mezzanine, next to the church room, a tiny chapel in miniature with 8 pew seats, ringing the tree for dinner to begin while two white-gloved butlers (BUTLERS!) brought around drinks and appetizers: chicken paté, which none of we Americans ate, and fried cheese sticks with guacamolé,which we Americans ate.
The butlers led us up the stairs into the dining room, where we ate a very formal meal, white gloves dancing around our heads, illuminated candelabra and fresh plates, infernally hot,preceded each of the four courses.
Chip, the unfortunate victim, got sick the next day.
Aha!
It was the old Aliaga man disguised as the butler. Mystery solved! Peruvian Scooby Doo would be proud.
Matt
The place belonged to Pisarro's best bud, a Count or some such by the name of Aliaga. The house has been in the same family (thanks Spanish feudalism!) for about 16 generations. They had managed to snag the title back from Spain in the 60's (that's 1960s) after the strength of the X chromosome for a few decades stripped them of the noble designation.
It was a dark, dark house, that even managed to make a the French rococo room seem sinister. We entered at night in the dark entry and were greeted by the house staff. Up the stairs from the main doors to an open courtyard, illuminated by one light, that confused the senses at night, as it seemed like the Lima cloudy night sky was the ceiling, as the sweep of the cold winter air swirled around you. They like to psyche you out in this palace.
Each room was old money decoration by the century. A disorienting mosaic of mishmashed styles spanning the continents and centuries. They like to keep you guessing. Dark Spanish1500s gothic decor one room, French rococo with original Louis XVI chairs we sat on, 2 original Versailles mirrors with Marie Antoinette's likeness above it, a paneled empire period waiting room, and family portraits dotting every available spot on the walls whose eyes seemed to follow you as you walk by. If the house were attached to a rotting pier and had a carousel it could have served as the backdrop for every Scooby Doo scene ever. I kept expecting to see human eyes behind the portraits quickly shutting as our eyes met The interlopers in a fish bowl, waiting for the murder mystery to begin.
We decided that our group of 10 would have two rules;
1: no one would go into the basement, and
2: we were only to travel the house in pairs.
Eventually, our tour of the house took us into an inner courtyard with a ficus tree so tall that extended a full story out of the house. Having only ever seen the sort of ficus that freaks out and drops all its leaves after someone moves it half a foot, seeing how substantial one can get when it's left stationary- planted in fact- was fairly eye opening.We waited on the mezzanine, next to the church room, a tiny chapel in miniature with 8 pew seats, ringing the tree for dinner to begin while two white-gloved butlers (BUTLERS!) brought around drinks and appetizers: chicken paté, which none of we Americans ate, and fried cheese sticks with guacamolé,which we Americans ate.
The butlers led us up the stairs into the dining room, where we ate a very formal meal, white gloves dancing around our heads, illuminated candelabra and fresh plates, infernally hot,preceded each of the four courses.
Chip, the unfortunate victim, got sick the next day.
Aha!
It was the old Aliaga man disguised as the butler. Mystery solved! Peruvian Scooby Doo would be proud.
Matt
Tuesday, July 8, 2008
Ica
The city of Ica is located in the province of Ica, south of Lima.
This area is desert; average annual rainfall: 2 cm. It's a hauntingly beautiful landscape, especially when the sky is blue and the sun is shining, which is not always the case. At this time of year, there is a grey sky until noon or thereabouts.
Ica is Peru's wine producing area and today we are touring a winery, then up the Panamerican highway back to Lima.
There are amazing dunes which tower over our hotel - it's impossible to describe their size. Among the activities on offer at
the hotel include dune buggying and sand surfing (or boarding?) Today Matt, Rosie and our friends, Rick, Chip and Alfonzo decided to partake of these adventures. They returned about 2 hours later, jubilant. Apparently, the dune buggy ride was nearly as exciting as the slides down the dune. Photos and videos were taken - which, of course don't allow us armchair adventurers get the full experience, but we can tell from their facial expressions in the photos that they had a blast!
This area is desert; average annual rainfall: 2 cm. It's a hauntingly beautiful landscape, especially when the sky is blue and the sun is shining, which is not always the case. At this time of year, there is a grey sky until noon or thereabouts.
Ica is Peru's wine producing area and today we are touring a winery, then up the Panamerican highway back to Lima.
There are amazing dunes which tower over our hotel - it's impossible to describe their size. Among the activities on offer at
the hotel include dune buggying and sand surfing (or boarding?) Today Matt, Rosie and our friends, Rick, Chip and Alfonzo decided to partake of these adventures. They returned about 2 hours later, jubilant. Apparently, the dune buggy ride was nearly as exciting as the slides down the dune. Photos and videos were taken - which, of course don't allow us armchair adventurers get the full experience, but we can tell from their facial expressions in the photos that they had a blast!
Monday, July 7, 2008
Donde Esta La Casa de Pepe?
After 18 years, I have the answer. In Ica, apparently, next to the airport at the Condor Hotel.
I first met Steve in 1990 when I was 18. After hanging out with Matt for a few months, Steve learned I hailed from Colombia. The first time he uttered his famous phrase, the only Spanish he claims to have mastered, I was in the back of Forrer Hall, sitting with Matt. He walked up, stood before us, as if he was about to deliver a Shakespearian soliloqy, announcing, proudly, through fits of laughter: "Donde Esta LaCasa de Pepe?" And walked away. He has been doing this ever since.
I am happy to say, Steve, I now know where he lives now.
Pepe is a condor. He has a lovely roost at the Condor Hotel, next to the airport where you can catch a plane to seethe Nasca lines.
Rosie
I first met Steve in 1990 when I was 18. After hanging out with Matt for a few months, Steve learned I hailed from Colombia. The first time he uttered his famous phrase, the only Spanish he claims to have mastered, I was in the back of Forrer Hall, sitting with Matt. He walked up, stood before us, as if he was about to deliver a Shakespearian soliloqy, announcing, proudly, through fits of laughter: "Donde Esta LaCasa de Pepe?" And walked away. He has been doing this ever since.
I am happy to say, Steve, I now know where he lives now.
Pepe is a condor. He has a lovely roost at the Condor Hotel, next to the airport where you can catch a plane to seethe Nasca lines.
Rosie
Sunday, July 6, 2008
Christian the Monkey
Today, I met a monkey.
The kids surrounding the docks where the boats depart for Ballestas Island are, just like everyone else in this tourist area, just trying to make a buck. Supposedly, if you give in to one of them by buying a post card or something similar, you're seen as an easy mark for the rest. And we all were able to resist fairly well, until the kid showed up with the monkey.
For a approximately 33 cents, one can get one's photo taken with Christian the monkey.
Until Rosie told me about her disappointing childhood experience as a monkey owner, I would have to say that I always thought that a monkey might be the ultimate pet/companion. If you
still harbor such illusions, please permit Rosie at some point to convince you otherwise. However, despite my monkey party getting pooped on, I have to say that I couldn't resist the opportunity to actually pet a monkey. After initially walking away, the voice of future regret
whispered to me, "This is the first time in 35 years you've had a chance to pet a monkey, do you really want to wait 'til you're 70?", so I turned around a went back to the kid with Christian
the Monkey.
I gave the kid the money, and, unexpectedly, the kid gave me the monkey. Just shoved him into my arms. I guess I expected that the photo would be of me, Christian the Monkey, and the kid,
that Christian required special training to handle. But no, I was on my own with Christian, who was a perfect gentlemonkey. He was light as a feather, took a second to groom his very soft coat, and looks great on camera. He was awesome.
Rosie's wrong. Monkeys rock.
Matt
Saturday, July 5, 2008
Most flights from the US to Lima are scheduled to arrive at night; ours was no different - 11 pm. We were met at the airport by Juan, from LIMA TOURS, who helped with our luggage and assisted us into the van for the drive to the hotel, Casa Andina Private Collection, Miraflores. This area of town is about 45 minutes away from the airport and we were all amazed at the twists and turns the driver took to get us to the hotel.
There aren't many expressways in Lima, although there is a lot of road and other construction, in preparation for the November APEC meeting hosted here.
8 am was our departure time from Lima. Braddy from LIMA TOURS helped us load into the van and we were off down the Pan American Highway, south to Ica.
Along the Highway were rows and rows of squatters' villages - created when the Shining Path terrorized the farmers and country dwellers, forcing them to leave their homes and farms to move to the relative safety of Lima. There were countless communities of these dwellings, without water or electricity - the government doesn't officially know they exist. The majority work off the grid, so they had no official record.
Also spotted along the highway, which runs along a very narrow strip between the ocean and the mountains, were row after row of buildings meant to house chickens. Right on the beach.
After 3.5 hours, we arrived at Las Dunas Hotel in Ica.
Next up, a flight over the Nazca Lines.
There aren't many expressways in Lima, although there is a lot of road and other construction, in preparation for the November APEC meeting hosted here.
8 am was our departure time from Lima. Braddy from LIMA TOURS helped us load into the van and we were off down the Pan American Highway, south to Ica.
Along the Highway were rows and rows of squatters' villages - created when the Shining Path terrorized the farmers and country dwellers, forcing them to leave their homes and farms to move to the relative safety of Lima. There were countless communities of these dwellings, without water or electricity - the government doesn't officially know they exist. The majority work off the grid, so they had no official record.
Also spotted along the highway, which runs along a very narrow strip between the ocean and the mountains, were row after row of buildings meant to house chickens. Right on the beach.
After 3.5 hours, we arrived at Las Dunas Hotel in Ica.
Next up, a flight over the Nazca Lines.
Tuesday, June 3, 2008
Follow us on our trip to Peru
Rosie, Matt, Bop and I are be headed to Peru. Check back often for photos and reports of each day's events.
Ciao!
Ciao!
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